Recently, I’ve seen a lot of celebrities and bloggers post about “microneedling”. What it is, what it is treating, and can I do it at home?
First off, be careful not to treat your skin to the latest trends. Just because you see your friends or favorite influencer doing something, does not mean that you should too. Jumping into any skin “trend” without proper research and consultation can be harmful and not yield the results you are looking for.
Microneedling is a treatment that uses very small needles to poke tiny holes into the skin to treat various conditions including scarring, stretch marks, and wrinkles.
Medical microneedling, also referred to as Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT), uses longer needles (0.5 - 1.0mm) which penetrate through the epidermis to the dermis, to stimulate collagen and elastin production. In fact, collagen will continue to be produced as the skin heals, even three to six months after your treatment. These procedures are a bit painful and can cause bleeding, which is why they are only performed by medical personnel and licensed technicians.
Cosmetic microneedling, which we do in our studio and you can do at home, uses shorter needles (0.1-0.2mm) that only affect the epidermis. These micro-perforations open up your skin to allow products, such as serums, to penetrate 80-90% more than they would on unbroken skin. The technique is painless and does not cause bleeding.
I recommend microneedling during your nighttime routine, since your skin may look a bit red after (and because your skin absorbs product more efficiently when you sleep).
Begin by cleansing the skin and applying toner. Follow with the dermal needler, rolling 2-3 times horizontally, vertically and diagonally, continuing until you have covered your whole face. It’s best to work in one-inch sections to make sure you’ve covered all areas.
One last note: do not do microneedling over any patches of active acne, as it will spread the bacteria. Also avoid any areas with rosacea or eczema. When your skin is inflamed, you are at a higher risk of infection.
When done, apply your favorite serum and follow with Biologique Recherche's Cocktail D’Actifs, or Environ's Frown Serum. Finish with a moisturizer, like Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream or Biologique Recherche's Creme Masque Vernix. If you are a beginner, I recommend only doing this treatment once a week. According to Dr. Des Fernandes, founder of Environ Skincare and one of the pioneers of skin needling, to make a true difference in the skin, you should work up to needling every night.
The tool I use on myself and my clients is Environ’s Gold Roller CIT -- gold is naturally antiseptic, and who doesn’t love gold!
This treatment is not limited to the face and can be done on different parts of the body (such as stretch marks on the abdomen). Environ's Body Roll-CIT is great for covering the hard to reach places like the elbows or knees.
Needling on the body is best done after a shower. Towel off and apply Environ’s Derma-Lac Lotion. Use the needler, then follow with Environ’s Vitamin A, C, E Oil, which will help further the rejuvenation of your collagen.
You should always consult your esthetician before you begin a cosmetic microneedling treatment.